K2, also known as Mount Godwin-Austen, is the second-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,611 meters (28,251 feet) above sea level. It is part of the Karakoram range and is located on the border between Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan and China’s Xinjiang region. K2 is widely considered one of the most difficult mountains to climb due to its steep slopes, unpredictable weather, and high fatality rate. Its nickname, “The Savage Mountain,” reflects the dangers associated with its ascent.
Early Attempts
The earliest recorded sighting of K2 was in 1856 by Thomas Montgomerie of the Great Trigonometric Survey of British India. He labeled it “K2” as the second peak in the Karakoram range. The first documented attempt to climb K2 took place in 1902, led by Oscar Eckenstein and Aleister Crowley. The expedition failed due to harsh weather, lack of experience, and insufficient equipment.
A notable attempt was made in 1939 by an American team led by Fritz Wiessner, who reached an altitude of 8,380 meters (27,500 feet) before being forced to retreat. The 1953 expedition by a joint American-Pakistani team also failed, highlighting the extreme challenges posed by K2.
The first successful ascent and summit of K2
The first ascent of K2 was accomplished on July 31, 1954, by Italian climbers Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni as part of an expedition led by Ardito Desio. The team established a series of high-altitude camps before launching their final push to the summit. Walter Bonatti, an Italian climber, and Askole porter Amir Mehdi played a crucial role in carrying oxygen supplies to Camp IX but were controversially left exposed to harsh conditions overnight. The success of Lacedelli and Compagnoni remains a significant achievement in mountaineering history, though the expedition was later embroiled in controversy regarding Bonatti’s treatment.
First Ascent Without Supplemental Oxygen
The first ascent of K2 without supplemental oxygen was achieved by Reinhold Messner and Michel Dacher in 1979. This marked a significant milestone in high-altitude climbing, demonstrating the human body’s capability to endure extreme hypoxia.
First Winter Ascent
K2 remained the only 8,000-meter peak never summited in winter until January 16, 2021, when a team of Nepali climbers, led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, successfully reached the top. The extreme cold, hurricane-force winds, and technical challenges made this one of the most remarkable achievements in mountaineering history.
First American Ascent
The first American ascent of K2 was completed in 1978 by Jim Wickwire, Louis Reichardt, Rick Ridgeway, and John Roskelley. Wickwire was forced to endure a night at 8,382 meters (27,500 feet) without a tent or oxygen, making his survival one of the most dramatic episodes in mountaineering.
First Solo Ascent
The first solo ascent of K2 was accomplished by Polish climber Wanda Rutkiewicz in 1986. Climbing alone on K2 is considered highly dangerous due to the mountain’s technical demands and lack of rescue options.
Fastest Ascent
Nirmal Purja holds the record for the fastest ascent of K2, reaching the summit from Camp 4 in just 6 hours and 10 minutes in 2019. His climb was part of his larger mission to complete all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in a record-breaking time.
First Ski Descent
The first full ski descent of K2 was completed in 2018 by Polish skier Andrzej Bargiel. His achievement was historic as he skied from the summit to base camp without removing his skis.
Climbing Challenges and Risks
K2 is known for its steep rock faces, unpredictable weather, and high fatality rate compared to other 8,000-meter peaks. Avalanches, extreme cold, and lack of oxygen make it one of the most dangerous mountains to climb. Unlike Mount Everest, K2 does not have a standard commercial climbing route, and successful ascents require advanced technical skills.
K2 in Popular Culture
K2 has been featured in several films, books, and documentaries, emphasizing its legendary status in the climbing world. The 1991 film “K2” and the 2012 documentary “The Summit” depict the challenges faced by climbers attempting to conquer the mountain.
FAQs
When was K2 first climbed?
K2 was first climbed on July 31, 1954, by Italian climbers Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.
Why is K2 called “The Savage Mountain”?
K2 is called “The Savage Mountain” because of its extreme difficulty, high fatality rate, and unpredictable weather conditions, making it one of the deadliest peaks to climb.
How many people have successfully climbed K2?
As of recent records, fewer than 400 people have successfully reached the summit of K2, significantly fewer than those who have summited Mount Everest.
What makes K2 more difficult than Everest?
K2 is steeper, more technical, and has more unpredictable weather than Everest. There are no commercial climbing routes, and climbers must navigate dangerous ice, rock, and avalanches.
Has K2 been climbed in winter?
Yes, K2 was first climbed in winter on January 16, 2021, by a team of Nepali climbers led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa.
Can beginners climb K2?
No, K2 is not suitable for beginners. It requires advanced mountaineering skills, technical expertise, and experience at high altitudes.
What is the death rate on K2?
The death rate on K2 is around 25%, meaning approximately one in four climbers attempting to summit do not return.
Conclusion
The history of K2 is a testament to human endurance, courage, and determination. From the first successful ascent in 1954 to modern-day achievements, K2 continues to be one of the most coveted summits in mountaineering. Despite its dangers, climbers from around the world are drawn to the challenge, ensuring that K2 remains one of the most respected and feared peaks on Earth.